A visit to The Beppu Traditional Bamboo Craft Centre

This afternoon Hisako (my Japanese friend) took me to the Traditional Bamboo Craft Centre in Beppu. It is situated in Higashisoen area. You can take No.22 bus from Beppu station East exit and get off at Takezaikukan mae or No.1 bus from West exit and get off at Minamibaru stop. But I was lucky as Hisako took me there by her car. We arrived at the beautiful premises of the museum at 1:00 pm and purchase tickets. It’s a 2 storied building. The Exhibition hall is in ground floor and lecture/training rooms are in 2nd floor.

We entered into centre. In the entrance we saw a huge master work “The Dragon in the Sky” .The guide told us it took 6 months for the artisan to complete it. Then we turn left and through a wonderful bamboo gate entered into the exhibition hall. The hall is divided into several sections including history, materials, craftsmanship, daily life and the future sections.

According to the museum’s information booklet Beppu’s bamboo ware came out to light at the time of the 12th Emperor Keikoh’s visit to Beppu. He noticed the huge number of high quality bamboo utensils and ordered a number of bamboo baskets. Beppu became famous for hot springs at the beginning of Edo period and visitors came here to enjoy hot springs and began to buy the bamboo ware as souvenir. Thus Beppu’s bamboo crafts became famous in Japan. Beppu produce Madake bamboo. Madake bamboo is superior quality variety of bamboo and produced only in Oita prefecture. The guide told us that Japan used to export madake bamboos to USA during early 20th century. The artisans use madake and other varieties such as Kurochiku, hachiku (black) and gomadake (speckled) for making the crafts. We saw all these kind of bamboo samples kept in the exhibition hall. On the wall of the exhibition hall we saw sample of different types of weaving patterns such as rectangular, hexagonal, octagonal, reticulated, pine needle, chrysanthemum bottom, and rinko weaving patterns. Here they also displayed consecutive steps of making a bamboo basket. Some tools used for bamboo craft are also kept there.

In the “Bamboo Artwork Section” we saw the masterworks of master artisans. It was an amazing experience! So, skillful, flawless creations! I saw some master works of national living treasure Shono Shounsai (1904-1974). Shono Shounsai grew up and lived in Beppu.

We saw baskets, lamp shades, sieves, flower vases, fish traps, chairs, table wares, toys, various kind of kitchen stuffs, a palanquin and an ancient ship model made from bamboos. The surprising thing for me was the light bulb; the filament of the bulb was made of bamboo. Incredible! Here I saw a picture of Thomas Alva Edison (the inventor of light bulb) with his invented light bulb. The guide told me that Edison used bamboo filament in his light bulb. So the centre made a prototype of bamboo filament light bulb.

Beside the exhibition hall they have a Reference room where visitors can earn knowledge about bamboo craft and can see videos of bamboo weaving patterns. On the 2nd floor we saw the trainees learning the bamboo art under the guidance of professionals.

The centre provides short term study sessions for the participants to experience actual charm of making bamboo crafts. Here you can make bamboo bells, flower vases, baskets etc. The Craft centre has research facilities. Beppu’s young artisans can acquire knowledge on bamboo art there.

If you are in Beppu please pay a visit to the Beppu traditional bamboo Museum. You will certainly be amazed by the skills of the bamboo artisans. You can buy Beppu’s bamboo craft ware from shops around Beppu station.

Address: 8-3 Higashisoen, Beppu. Phone: 0977-23-1072
Opening hours: 8:30 – 17:00, Holiday: Monday
Admission fee: 300 Yen (Yen 250 for group over 20)

A v i s i t t o t h e p l a c e of H e l l s

Monday, December 21, 2009

Ms. Hisako (Japanese tour organizer) and I started our Kannawa tour in one fine winter afternoon of 2009. Kannawa is one of the eight hot spring districts in Beppu. Kannawa hot springs date back to the Kamakura Period (1276). The Kannawa district is a charming spot, with hot springs, traditional Japanese hotels, shops and foods. We walked through mysterious narrow streets of Kannawa. Ms. Hisako said when people walk with Geta (one kind of Japanese traditional shoe) on the stone –paved roads, it generates a rhythmic sound. Another interesting feature of the road is Steam exhaling. When a car passes over the iron lids on the drainage system, the lids release steam. It seems that the car itself releases steam from its back. In the entrance we saw the statue of Priest Ippen Shonin, a famous Buddhist priest, founder of Kannawa who opened the hot springs for healing and therapy in the 13th century. By the statue a large stone plate shows (as Ms. Hisako translated): Saint Ippen, the founder of the hot spring, visited Kannawa on his way of pilgrimage around Kyushu Island in Kamakura era. At that time this area was a huge wasteland of hot springs steaming up everywhere. He developed the area into a hot spring resort.


Japanese people believe that the hot spring heals mind and body. So hot springs become very popular among the people.

Jiguku Mushi

Jigoku-mushi (hell steaming) is a traditional method of preparing food by using the hot spring steam. In this method various ingredients—vegetables, eggs, corns etc.—are steamed in a pot called a jigoku-gama (kind of iron pot) that uses hot spring steam released from the ground. We enjoyed it in Daikokuya Ryokan. We cooked eggs and sweet potatoes in the jigoku-gama by using hot spring steam. We put eggs and sweet potatoes in a cane basket then placed it on jigoku-gama and cover it with a wooden lid. Within a few minutes food is cooked. It was oil free and naturally cooked. It took 8 minutes for eggs and 20 minutes for sweet potatoes. The taste was really great! Any kind of food can be cooked there such as; chicken, sea food, shrimp, spinach, takenoko (bamboo shoot), pudding, rice ball, corn etc. But the time is different for every item according to the chart hanging there. Anybody can rent jigoku-gama for private use.

Address of Daikokuya: 3- kumi, Kannawa, Beppu, Tel: 0977-66-2301

Business Hours: 10:00-22:00

Mushi-Yu

We visited Mushi-yu, a well known steam bath in Kannawa. First time for me, so Ms. Hisako told me what to do. First we took shower by hot spring water and wear yukata (a traditional robe rented from Mushi-yu).Then we crawled into the steam house. The house is small and can accommodate 4/5 persons at a time. The floor is wooden, covered by a kind of special straw(…). We lay down on the straw using stones as pillows. Steam coming out from the floor made us extremely sweating. Though I had feelings of staying in hell in that small cave like, almost dark steam house, I felt very comfortable. When I inhale the overwhelming fragrance of the straw, I felt relaxed. It was intensely hot. We stayed there around 2-3 minutes then came out and enter again for 3-4 minutes. From the steam house we went to the nearby hot spring to take a hot bath as next step to wipe off the straw sticking to our sweaty body. It was tremendous experience that I have ever had. Steam rooms and hot springs are separate for men and women. It is believed that Steam bath is especially good for cure of neuralgia, rheumatism, and arthritis.

Ashi-Yu

Outside, there was another ashi-yu. Ashi-yu is a place where people can bathe their legs. It’s free for all. We put our legs inside a wooden box then covered it by a lid. The steam comes out beneath the ground made our legs sweating. We enjoyed it for 3-4 minutes. We pull out our warm legs and started walking back for home with happy feelings. Thus we finished our Kannawa tour.

Address of Mushi-yu: Kannawa kami- 1 kumi. Tel: 0977-67-3880. Business Hours: 6:30-20:00
Admission fee: 500 Yen per person, 210 yen rent for yukata (or you can bring your own shirt)
Holiday: 4th Thursday of the month.

Kannawa preserves its own history as a bathing town. The people of Kannawa are genuine and friendly. I enjoyed my tour very much. We finish our visit to hell with heavenly feelings. If you have a chance, please come to Beppu and visit Kannawa. I am sure you will enjoy it too!

Hachiman Asami Shrine

Today Hisako (Japanese friend), Simon (Chinese friend) and I enjoyed a delicious lunch in Café Shinanoya. Shinanoya serves delicious food and very famous in Beppu. From café Shinanoya we walk to Hachiman Asami Shrine. This magnificent shrine is located in Asami area (10 minutes walk from JR Beppu Station) and very rich in history. According to their information brochure, the shrine was established in 1196, shortly after the eruption of Mt. Tsurumi. In 1598, it was destroyed by a devastating earthquake and restored in 1670. Asami shrine commemorated its 800th anniversary in 1996. This is a very popular attraction for visitors. People visit this shrine in special occasions and make wishes to God of the shrine. As Hisako told, there are around 80,000 shrines in Japan.

Torii
We crossed the Miyuki (happiness) bridge in the entrance and walked through torii (archway) on the stone paved road. Torii are the symbol of shrines and mark the boundary between the everyday world and the sacred realm of gods. There are three toriis. The stone paved approach to the shrine begins from the second torii.

The Legendary Stones

Along the pavement, there are two special shaped legendary stone; the Gourd stone and the Cup stone. It is said that anyone can secure good luck for the year by stepping onto these stones especially on the first visit of the year. So, Hisako, Simon and me stepped onto these stones and wish good luck for the year.

The Cedar Couple
We went up the stairs to the shrine and in the shrine premise, a cedar couple welcomed us. These two cedar trees are very old and huge, standing next to each other like a massive gate in the sky. Tradition says that if two persons pass under these two cedars together, they will be married. Hisako and I passed together, so I don’t know what will happen to us since both of us are women! Hisako told me if some hug one of the cedars and wish something, it will happen. So I hugged one of them and wish not to be married with Hisako! Now I am eagerly waiting to see which one will occur in my case.

The Ever-clean Spring water
Right after the cedar couple we saw the Mantaro spring water. The clean water stored in a water tank for the visitors. It is said that this spring water did not run dry in the drought or become muddy in a spell of rain. It is named after Mantaro; a dutiful son who gave this ever-clean spring water to his gravely ill father, restoring him quickly to perfect health. Hisako explained me the way to use the holy water. So, by using the water pot first I clean my right hand than left and pour water on my right hand then gurgle with that. Thus I purify myself to enter into the shrine.

The Holy Shrine

We walk upstairs and reached at the holy shrine. A beautiful red colored wooden structured building. The main building is divided into two parts. The bigger part is for pray and the smaller one is the god house. I saw some monks and worshippers inside the big house. In front of the building there is a big bell tied with an arch with a huge long rope. A wooden box is kept under the bell for the worshippers to put coin. I decided to pray and wish something. So, according to shrine’s praying rule, I put a coin in the box, ring the bell twice, bow twice , clap twice then pray in silence and bow again.

On the right side of the shrine we saw the Asami library. You can find the 800 years of history and culture there. The library’s collection of precious cultural assets and literary works offer visitors a unique insight into the culture of Beppu.

1000 -year- old Camphor Tree
The shrine area is surrounded by oaks, cedars and other trees. Among the trees, a 1000 year-old huge camphor tree stands beside the shrine spreading its peaceful shadow over the premise. This is the oldest tree I had ever seen in my life!

The Black Hole
On the left side of the shrine we saw a black square hole. Hisako said that this hole is used for burning kadomatsu. Kadomatsu is a traditional Japanese decoration of new year placed in front of homes to welcome ancestral spirits. Usually it is made of pines and bamboos. In the beginning of the year people place kadomatsu and in the middle of January they burn it in the square hole of the Shrine to release the spirits.

We enjoyed the scenic beauty of Beppu valley from the left side and the downtown from the front side of the shrine. We finished our visit to Asami shrine with holy feelings and on the way back visited the souvenir shop. Here Simon tried his luck. He bought an omikuji (written oracle) with 100 yen. Happily he bought it but soon become pale as it is written in the omikuji that he will loss his girlfriend very soon! We asked Simon to hug the cedar couple and wish for a new girlfriend.

Please Visit the Asami shrine. You can feel the holiness of your mind. The thick greenery, solemn atmosphere, brisk air of the woods and the holy spirit of Asami shrine bring to visitors a tranquility of mind. You can visit Asami shrine any time of the day.


Address: 2-15-19, Asami, Phone: 09977-23-1408, E-mail:asami@asami.or.jp